Comparative
Essays
Un Air Embaumé Rigaud
(print 1920s)
Through its representations of an
enchanting Oriental woman and her entourage, this French perfume (‘a balmy
scent’) promises to bring to life the exoticism and spice of the Oriental
world. European consumers at the time would see the culture and life of the
middle-east as more vibrant and exotic than that of Europe. It portrays the
life of a rather wealthy woman, who is admiring the larger than life perfume
bottle, which is dramatically illuminated from the right.
Her servants and ladies in waiting
show proof that she comes from an eligible family, where life is pleasurable,
and at its highest quality. Her surroundings depict traditional palace salons
in the oriental world. Her deep warm orange bodice and shawl catch the eye,
since they represent passion and beauty, though the owner of these items is
admiring the object which she desires, the perfume. Even the lady in question
has flushed cheeks, which appears to be from just staring at the bottle. Red
can also symbolise happiness and passion.
Praying and honouring the perfume is
also shown through the servant, who is on his knees, and seemingly praying
towards the round bottle. One might even argue that the perfume is as important
as their God, their faith.
The wealthy woman’s body is very
feminine, with curves. Her posture is straight and confident, and her legs and
left arm are bent, which shows signs of surprise and excitement. Her facial
expression shows joy, and it subtly hints desire along with passion. Her
clothes are light and again, feminine, showing that she has a young and
spiritual soul. Her dark brown hair is covered with a veil which is lightly
jewelled, signifying that she is royalty.
The frame is very wide set, showing
her environment, along with the people that are under her order. All features
of the walls and drapes have intricate details, all hand-made of course, since
at the time these patterns were only achieved if hard and heavy labour was put
forward, again showing evidence of money. These details follow on through the
people living in the space, since they aren’t just people who are ordered
around. From their clothing and accessories, one can tell that they are viewed
upon on a higher rank. Perhaps they are distant family members or friends, but
certainly not just people who parade around her and don’t comment on their
behalf.
Seduction plays a large part in the
poster; the fiery colours symbolise passion and desire. In a way, her overall
persona shows desire.
Women in Europe thought that women in
the middle-east were exotic objects of desire, special and out of the ordinary.
This is why “Un Air Ebaume” was such a success, because it promised a colourful,
mysterious and glamorous approach to seducing men using scents. The elaborate representation
makes women believe that fairy tales can come true, that having this exotic
scent would make them fulfil their dreams.
White Diamonds
Elizabeth Taylor (print 1960s)
The most striking difference between
this advertisement and the previous one is the use of celebrity endorsement: Elizabeth
Taylor was a movie icon who epitomised class itself, a woman who was stunning
and elegant yet sexy and passionate. She was famous for her love affairs and
many husbands, and received a great deal of hugely valuable jewellery, such as
the world-famous ‘Taylor-Burton’ 69 carat diamond. For this reason, her perfume
brand delivered a successful message because it links the brand with romance,
seduction and power.
Therefore, Taylor is an aspirational figure,
unlike the anonymous woman of Un Air Embaumé.
It is the way that Taylor is represented that delivers the promise of bringing
class and elegance to the buyer as well as sex appeal that makes dreams come
true. Her pose is that of a movie star and the picture is like a film poster: dreamy and mystique. The viewer wants to see
more, so they buy the perfume to further develop their understandings of
Elizabeth’s presence. With Un Air Embaumé
it is clear what the woman is doing, in contrast, the viewer can only guess
what’s going on.
In this advert it is clear that Liza’s
advantage in making her fragrance is that she is well known, and well loved.
Her influence on the film society is unforgettable, and she warmed hearts in
many loving roles. Her social life was definitely known, since it was wildly
publicized due to people’s interests in a movie stars personal life.
Unlike Un Air Embaumé with its sultry colours, this representation is in
black and white, like a movie still. As for the advert itself, it is composed
of several smaller features which comprise this wonderful advert. The shot is
close frame, showing intimacy and relation. Her background is blurred so the
viewer can focus their attention on her. In those times, colour printing was
available, but they wanted to recall all the idyllic classic movies she was in.
However, the bottle itself is shone through with a warm undertone. The contrast
of the blue hued photo and the golden bottle is one which creates an
eye-catching form of art and style. Un
Air Embaumé is in full colour and doesn’t hold back on senses.
Elizabeth is posing in a way her lover
might imagine her, pure beauty. She is lit form the front, so her expensive
jewellery is dazzling and reflecting the light in a pleasant way. All she is
seen in are diamonds, including her dress, again enforcing taste and wealth.
Her hair is voluminous with soft glossy curls. This is her statement hair, and
her well known makeup. The cat eye liner with the pointed tip in the inner
corner of the eye then became a fashion statement.
Her ring isn’t a ring with diamonds,
but a diamond ring, symbolising marriage and a steady love life. Many women’s
adolescent dream is to marry the man of their dreams, along with having a
diamond ring to go along with the proposal.
